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The concrete masonry units (CMUs) are available in various sizes and are an effective means of building permanent structures under maintenance. The basic design of a retaining wall made ​​of concrete blocks dependent discharges Cements concrete, known as “base”, which defines the base level of the structure above the concrete block wall. The basic procedure for installing a single containment wall of concrete blocks can be adapted to a wall of any length and height.

You will need

• A stiff bristle broom
• A hammer drill
• A wooden stakes or steel 24 inch
• A nylon rope
• A linear level
• A tape
• Chalk lines
• A constructor level
• Mortar mix
• A box of mortar mix or wheelbarrow
• A level drop
• A palette of masonry or mason
• Rubber mallet (optional)
• Concrete blocks 8x8x16
• “Halves” of concrete blocks 8x8x8
• Some tapas of 2x8x16 concrete blocks (optional)

Instructions

1. Install a concrete pad poured for the retaining wall. According to the website of Dixieland ProBuild, the base must be at least 12 inches wide and 8 inches deep, and constantly leveled the entire length of the retaining wall. You must let the bottom hardens at least 48 hours before beginning the construction of the concrete wall. Dixieland ProBuild also recommended that the base is placed in undisturbed soil.
2. To remove dirt thoroughly clean the surface top of the base with a broom.
3. Defines the line from the wall to concrete blocks nail with a hammer, steel or wooden stakes at each end of the location of the retaining wall, located approximately 3 feet beyond the ends of the wall. Make sure the pins are vertical and nailed enough to be held firmly depth.
4. Place a piece of nylon rope between two stakes as LIEA guide wall. Stakes adjusts as needed to align the guide with the desired external surface of the retaining wall. Be sure to keep it tight and unobstructed. This will be used as a vertical guide for laying concrete blocks.
5. Levels below the guideline established in step 4 and make a vertical mark on the guide line of the surface above the base of the retaining wall at both ends of the wall. Use chalk lines to mark a line connecting the two marks. This establishes a wall line of the first layer, referred to as “spun” a concrete block.
6. Mix a quantity of premix mortar, also known as “slurry” mixture in a mortar box or wheelbarrow according to the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations for the length of the first course of concrete blocks. The consistency of the concrete must be moist and similar to peanut butter.
7. Starts at either end of the retaining wall and establishes a line of concrete along the sidewall of the chalk line made in step 5 of about 1 1/2 inches wide, 3/4 inch thick and 2 feet long. With a palette. Place a second parallel line of 8-inch concrete identical to the first.
8. Slowly placed concrete block mortar lines and level drop one level. Tapped gently with the handle of the paddle or a rubber mallet and part Leveling top as needed, making sure to maintain a line of mortar minimum 3/8 inch below it. Also make sure that the end of the block is aligned with the desired end of the retaining wall and the outer edge is aligned with the chalk line. Use the trowel to collect excess spilling concrete block below and return it to the mixture for reuse.
9. Check with a pallet, two lines of mortar along the sidewall of the chalk line to the next block, again about 1 1/2 inches wide, 3/4 inch thick, 2 feet long and 8 inches apart. Place the next block down gently on the mortar and making sure that it is level and tight adjacent edges.
10. Repeat step 9 for each concrete block and the rest of the first course of the wall. When the row is complete, it is good idea to check the alignment of each block with the guidelines of the wall and everyone has maintained their level.
11. Return to the starting point of the first course of concrete block and starts the second course. With a palette, make two lines of mortar along the edge top of the first block, again about 3/4 inch thick and 2 feet long.
12. Put in place the first concrete block, then gently tap the side top of it with the handle of the paddle or a rubber mallet, as necessary, to level it. Note: Begin the second course (and all others) concrete block with “halves” 8x8x8 block for the vertical joints offset 8 inches spun above.
13. Repeat steps 10, 11 and 12 to complete the installation of the concrete blocks for retaining wall.
14. Waiting at least 24 hours prior to filling the cells of the block, to allow them to set mortar joints.
15. Fill concrete block retaining wall with standard concrete, to maximize, if necessary, the strength of the wall. For a finishing touch, you can cover the retaining wall filled with concrete lids 2×8 secured with mortar.
16. Allowed to set full containment wall for 48 hours at least before filling with soil or rocks.

Tips and Warnings

• For ease of installation, try to plan the size of your retaining wall to match the standard size 8×16 inch blocks to minimize the need for cutting. For walls over 32 inches tall, you should consult with an engineer for advice in relation to the size of the database and other structural considerations.
• To add strength to your retaining wall, though in many places it is not a requirement, you can consider adding a horizontal reinforced steel bars 1/2 inch every 24 inches.
• The codes of local, state and national building, have specific requirements regarding the size of the foundation and retaining walls of concrete blocks, and you should contact the local office building to verify your compliance plans retaining wall.

Build a retaining wall cement, also known as wall, can you help stop dirt and other elements. A wall is a great way to add a garden against a house or add a decorative wall. It can be difficult to build a wall if you have no previous experience working with cement. Fortunately, with proper guidelines and instructions, you can build yourself your own concrete wall.

You will need

• Formwork
• Rebar
• Binding wire
• Tongs
• Concrete
• A shovel
• Cement
• A cube

Instructions

1. Install formwork where you want to build the wall. Use a sledgehammer to hammer in stakes from the forms to keep them in place. Follow the guidelines for installing wall forms correctly. Depending on the forms, the installation instructions can vary significantly, so please follow the instructions to install them properly.
2. Install the rebar as construction plans. Secure them together with tie wire and pliers.
3. Pour the concrete into the formwork. Place the hose pump concrete into the formwork and fill it with concrete up to the top of it. Fill it with concrete quickly. Just about 45 minutes before the concrete begins to dry. Level the part superior to the blade to make it even. Be sure to get a formwork in some service delivery mix concrete. Let the concrete dry for 48 hours before removing the forms.
4. Removes formwork exposing the concrete walls. Remove them as directed by the manufacturer.
5. Apply cement to the dry concrete wall. Pour the cement into a bucket. Apply with the blade on the wall, creating a layer. If you want to add texture to the wall, place the cement shape you want. Let the cement layer to dry for 10 days before painting.

Tips and Warnings

• You can rent any formwork tool rental store or a concrete delivery company.
• Do not use cement instead of concrete to the solid wall. The concrete will crack, so it should only be used as a finish.
• Do not try to mix and pour your own concrete or cement. Instructs the concrete company to any concrete delivery services to ensure that you can pour it fast enough.

Normally, when a window is broken, it’s just the glass panel, which is easily replaceable. However, sometimes, the window itself (wooden frame) is breaking. Simple windows that do not open, are easy to replace. Such windows are usually elongated, elegant and are next to the door, or are small and are high in the sink or in the bathroom. But you can find anywhere in the house.

You will need

• 2×2 wooden boards
• Drill bits
• Putty
• Wood glue
• Cut glass size needed
• Plugs
• Saw

Instructions

Making a simple wooden frame

1. Cut the 2×2 wooden board long and wide enough for your window. For example, if you need a window 6 inches by 20 inches, cut 2 boards 6 inches long and two boards 20 inches long.
2. Cut the corners of each table to have an angle of 45 degrees, so they snap to create a window frame. Just think as photo frames meet.
3. Measure and mark the exact center of the table. This is where the glass inserts. Then carefully, immerse the center line 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Do this on all four tables.
4. Punch holes in the corners on giua sloping sides, to match when two sides are together. To add security, make 2 holes per corner. Note: Even when both sides meet, the lines set must match.
5. Place a dab of wood glue into the hole (or two holes) into a corner and place a pin halfway. Then place a drop of glue into the holes in the wood that matches that corner and make recess the plug piece that was left out. The two pieces (the edge and singing) should fit tightly, forming an angle of 90 degrees.
6. Repeat setting the other side of the window frame, leaving the open bottom edge.
7. Place the cut piece of glass.
8. Place the bottom edge of the window frame using glue and pins to match the two sides of the frame.
9. Caulks around the glass.
10. Complete burnishing window frame or painting.

If your house is near other or a noisy street, you can it takes much needed privacy. While building a fence or a wall is a way to get it, another is to build a wall using shrubs that obstruct the view. Such walls can be done by anyone if attention to the selection of shrubs and spacing necessary for planting is provided. Generally, it takes one or two years to obtain a dense hedge, but apart from the pruning shrubs require very little care.

You will need

• A hose
• Chalk Spray
• A shovel
• Shrubbery
• Water
• Secateurs

Instructions

1. Wait until fall to plant the shrubs. According to the Extension of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, this gives the plants more likely to succeed in rapidly establishing its growth root and gives them stability due to the mild temperatures of this time and good moisture levels associated with this station. If you cannot plant shrubs in autumn, you can do it in spring to take advantage of a longer growing season.
2. Find out about the types of brushes you want to use on the wall. Perennial varieties are best because they keep the foliage all year. Good perennial choices are yours, junipers, spruces, and yews the rododendrons. If you prefer to have a single summer wall, choose a deciduous variety as privet, Cephalanthus occidentalis, dogwood, elderberry or forsythia.
3. Mark on the ground the line where the wall will be using a hose to decide the location. In general, you should place the bushes at a distance of 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) of roads and trails.
4. Walk with hose and spray using chalk, mark an X on the ground every 6-8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) for perennials and every 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0, 9 m) for deciduous shrubs. This is a below average, so look for the distances for the species you have chosen and the values ​​increased or decreased as required.
5. Place containers on the bushes every make and dig a hole in each X that has the same size as the container.
6. Turn each container and gently tap the bottom with one hand to loosen the root ball. Remove the plant from the container and gently separate the roots using your fingers.

7. Place the root ball into the hole, making sure the top are flush with the soil surface. Fill the hole with soil and tamp the surface to affirm the soil around the roots.
8. Water the soil around the entire thickness of the wall of bushes until damp to a similar depth of the holes. This ensures that the water reaches the deepest roots.
9. If planted shrubs in autumn, awaiting the arrival of spring to begin forming the hedge cutting new growth that occurs at the top and sides of plants, using pruning shears. If planted shrubs in spring, wait until you see new growth, which may take one to two months to appear. New growth is lighter in color than the old stems are flexible.

The soft curves and delicious texture of a stone wall evokes an atmosphere of elegance and romance that few man-made structures can match. Although most stone walls long are mainly composed of large, flat stones that are stacked neatly, you can build a small rustic wall with round and rather small stones, that will last for years as long as you adhere the parts with some mortar. Save money when buying commercial mortar by preparing your own mixture obtained by combining three parts sand to one part cement masonry explains Plymouth Quarries, a company mining rock that has been in business since 1811.

You will need

• Round stones
• Rods corrugated metal building
• Hammer
• String or heavy thread
• Cement
• Wooden board 2 x 4 inch (5 x 10 cm)
• Mortar (sand and cement)
• Water
• Truck
• Pieces of scrap wood
• Wire bristle brush

Instructions

1. Determines the height, width and length of the wall. Try to limit the height to within 3 feet (90 cm) in order to maintain stability and avoid attaching too much weight to the mortar mix you’ll use. As a general rule, plans to build a wall means having a width equal to half the height, e.g.: if you want your wall is 18 inches (45 cm) high, then there must be at least 9 inches (23 cm) wide.
2. Gather enough stones for your project. Choose those that are at least two times larger than your hands intertwined and lean by having more or less rounded ends. Avoid those that are perfectly round and that can compromise the strength of the wall. If you go to collect stone on your property or in the bed of a nearby stream, looking for a few elongated pieces with rounded tips. You will serve a lot in stabilizing a small wall.
3. Thrust several corrugated metal rods into the ground with a hammer to mark the dimensions-are the points where the corners and ends, what will be your stone wall. Tie a string or a thick rod thread and extend it, making sure it is taut-up to each of the other rods that surround the perimeter of your wall.
4. Dig the trench for the foundation or your shoe wall along the entire perimeter delimited by the string. The trench should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) wider than the base of the wall, for example if the wall is 18 inches (46 cm) wide, then the trench to the shoe must be 24 inches (61 cm) wide. Extend the trench depth considering the soil frost line in order to minimize cracking during the annual freeze. If you’re not sure how far is the frost line in your area, contact your local Cooperative Extension office.
5. Fill the trench with a concrete mixture. Level the concrete to about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) below the soil line using a wooden 2 x 4 inch (5 x 10 cm). Let the concrete cure mixture for at least two or three days.
6. Now mix the mortar with a little water in a wheelbarrow. Add enough water so that the mortar purchase a clay-like consistency. Apply a layer of 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) of mortar mix on the footing concrete cured. Select the larger stones and rounded to create a base layer to provide strength to the rest of the wall. Go arranging the stones as close together as possible about the mortar. Press them firmly against the mixture to adhere.
7. Build the rest of your wall by a layer of stone at a time. Spread mortar on small sections and place stones staggering the joints between the layers to further strengthen the structure. Place the stones at a slight angle in the center of the wall for stability.
8. Removes excess mortar joints between stone on the face using a piece of scrap wood. Removes stains and clumps of dry mortar of the main face of the stones with a bristle brush wire.

Tips and Warnings

• Make an appointment with the office of your local council so that you are aware of the permissions that you need before you begin building your wall.
• Do not try to load large stones do not run the risk of injuring yourself back.

You will need

• Door
• Parallel Studs
• Doorpost
• Level
• Wooden Shoes
• Interior Mouldings
• Hinges
• Gear Knob / ring

Instructions

1. Measure your door. Please note the size before starting. Then add an inch or two on each side.
2. Place two parallel nails in a wide space, and cut them up and add a cross bar to join them at the top end. Then, add a door jamb, a panel on the side of the hinge on the door to your art. With a few additional modifications have your input.
3. Mark where the hinges go. Brand also where will the gear knob / ring on the other side of the entrance.
4. Adjusts to probe. Use a level to check if the input is probed. If not, you use wood shims to place it correctly.
5. Add trim inside the door frame. Get free edges so that the door to swing inward or outward.
6. Hold the hinges on the right side of the frame and sets the target. Adjusts to probe again, if necessary.
7. Engages the gear knob / ring. Make sure it is placed at the correct height, so that the shrink-ring snaps into the door frame (attached to frame) to close the door. Alternatively, if you have a latch mechanism, make sure that the door is not so dragging or hanging diagonal on the hinges.

Tips and Warnings

• There are several ways to adjust a door so that it is leveled correctly. A common way is to get thin material between the door jamb and the door frame to be located in the correct position.

How to adjust the strap a washing machine. The washing machine is not spinning, spinning too slow or is making a terrible shriek. What to do?

You will need

• Belts parts washer
• Old bath towels
• Adjustable wrenches
• Screwdriver Set

Instructions

1. Unplug the washer and close the taps of water.
2. Disconnect hoses from water and drain hose and pull the washer away from the wall, leaving you enough room to work behind the appliance.
3. Which supports an old towel and kneel to absorb the water hoses losing.
4. Remove the rear access panel.
5. Locate the engine. The rubber belt goes around the pulley wheel attached to the motor.
6. Press the belt. If you give more than 3/4 inch (1.90 cm), needs to be adjusted.
7. Loosen the mounting nut for the engine and pushes the entire engine to increase belt tension.
8. Hold the motor in place and adjust the mounting nut.
9. Be sure not to tighten the belt too much or crack. You should be able to push and feel slightly sagging.

Tips and Warnings

• Replace the belt if it shows signs of wear.

Maytag washing machines are manufactured in a range of models, each with a different set of features and modes of washing. The drive belt is an integral component in all models. The belt connects the motor pulley system to control the movement of the tub and the agitator. If the belt is too loose or too tight, the machine may not be able to function properly. Adjust the strap to keep the Maytag washing machine running efficiently.

You will need

• Box spanner
• Phillips

Instructions

1. Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet.
2. Remove the screws from the base of the front panel. Lift the bottom of the front panel away from the Maytag washer to disconnect from the spring clips on the top of the panel.
3. Place the front panel aside to expose the motors, pulleys and belt.
4. Washing machine tilts rearwardly so that the upper part rests on the wall and the bottom of the machine can be accessed.
5. Loosen the motor mounting bolts with the socket wrench.
6. The motor moves forward or backward to adjust the belt tension as required.
7. Tighten the mounting bolts of the engine when the belt is tight.
8. Place the washer on its feet. Replace the front panel. Install the two screws holding the panel in place.

Hard water is an annoying and difficult problem. Even if you’re not dealing with stains and mineral deposits, hard water, which has high levels of minerals, may impede the washing and drinking water may have an unpleasant taste. Although the best solution for hard water is to install a water softener in the source, there are times when this option is unavailable, or when you need a little soften a small amount of water.

Instructions

1. Boil the water and let cool. If water is suffering from temporary hardness (the presence of bicarbonate and calcium ions) rather than permanent hardness (presence of calcium and magnesium sulfates), the minerals will boil in the water to precipitate and leave the water.
2. Add washing soda to soften large amounts of water to clean your home. The soda is similar to baking soda and you can find stores that sells laundry supplies.
3. Use borax to soften the water. This is also found in the sections laundry is a good solution for the washing (or cleaning) and help you achieve a cleaner, brighter clothes while avoiding many problems of discoloration due to hard water.
4. Use soft bath with a mixture of water and baking soda water. Add 1/4 cup to a full bathtub and make a concentrated mixture in a bottle containing 3 tablespoons of baking soda and four cups of water. Use this mixture as a rinse at the end of your bath to remove soap scum and shampoo your hair and skin.
5. Create a filter to improve the taste of drinking hard water, or to remove iron from the water that can cause discoloration. Place a few tablespoons of charcoal filter for aquariums (available at pet stores) between a pair of coffee filters and pour water through it before drinking. This will remove many minerals, including iron.

The dryers can accumulate odors over time as a result of the spots on the machine or musty odor caused by fluff caught in the fibers collector. To deodorize the dryer, you must thoroughly clean the drum and the fiber collector. You can do so easily and avoid the smell unpleasant penetrate your freshly dried clothes.

You will need

• Compressed Air
• Bleach
• A measuring cup
• A large wooden spoon
• A bucket of 5 gallons (19 l)
• A clean cloth to wash your face
• Water
• A clean towel

Instructions

1. Open the dryer door and look for items that may be causing the odor, such as a food pellet or other object that was forgotten in a pocket and fell. Removes the object from the dryer and throw it away. If an animal climbed up the machine and died, call a professional exterminator for proper disposal.
2. Open compartment fiber collector. Removes excess lint hand and throw it away. Apply compressed air to the slots in the collector to remove debris. Rinse with tap water manifold and clean it with a clean towel before replacing it.
3. Fill a 5 gallon bucket (19 l) with water. Pour a cup of bleach and mix with a large wooden spoon.
4. Dip a clean cloth in the cleaning solution of bleach and rub the dryer drum to remove stains or other debris. Clean the entire surface of the dryer with the saturated cloth.
5. Close the door and put the heat setting on your dryer maximum heat level. Turn it on and let it run for an hour. Open the door and wait for the air dryer for two or three hours out to completely deodorize.

Tips and Warnings

• Do not open or take off the internal components of the dryer to clean them, unless you have experience in serving you the dryer. If all other options fail to properly deodorize your clothes dryer, consider calling a professional repair dryers to eliminate odor.
• Use gloves and safety glasses when applying the bleach solution to prevent harmful exposure to chemicals.