Placing tiles may seem difficult for someone who has never tried before this task. However, you will probably find that the most difficult task is to remove and replace the toilet, everything else is easy. While placing tiles on a bathroom is easy because it is a small room, you can also present some challenges, such as cut of the tiles to fit in corners or around pipes. You must be prepared for this work will take a few days, and you should plan ahead if you have an extra bathroom.
Prepare the bathroom floor
- Remove the toilet of the bathroom. You can remove it after closing the water stopcock and empty the water tank. Then disconnect the water connection of the toilet. Then remove the covers of the screws that hold the toilet to the floor, and unscrew the nuts with a wrench. Use a utility knife to cut the putty that seals the toilet to the floor. Lift the toilet right up to remove it. Then, place a damp cloth on the rim of the opening to prevent the gas from sewers entering your home.
- Relieve the base molding with a spatula. No need to remove the socket. However, remove the backboard and lift your tile floor about 3/4 (1.91 cm) inches. So if you think that the socket will be very small, you can remove it as well.
- If you also plan to replace the sink, you should remove it now. If you want to keep it, then leave it in place.
- Remove all the old ground if necessary. You can find more information on how to remove different types of floors .Avoid removing vinyl flooring that contains asbestos. If a large part of the floor is loose or lifted, you will need to remove it before continuing.
- Jacking galvanized bolts of 2 1/2 inches (6.35 cm) across the floor beams within intervals of 8 inches (20.32 cm). You can find the beams by drilling a small hole near the wall. If the piece breaks off and is a hollow space, move 1 inch (2.54 cm) and try again. The beams are generally between 16 and 24 inches (40.64 cm and 60.96 cm) distance between them. This step will ensure that the subsoil and base are secure.
- Undermines below the rim of the door to make room for the raised floor. Place a piece of backboard, a tile and two pieces of cardboard next to the door. Then cut and remove the trim with a saw or jamb saw.
- Sweep and clean the floor thoroughly. If you leave on the floor vinyl or linoleum in place, remove the paint to remove waxy residue. Use a pickling commercial vinyl or linoleum according to the instructions on the label.
- Use duct tapes to wrap the copper pipes that pass through the floor to prevent grout corrode copper. You should also cover the bottom of the tub, shower and sink with masking tape to protect mortar and grout.
- Remove the loose sections of vinyl and fill the gaps with mortar tail, using the flat of the knife.
Install the backboard
- Cut and placed all the pieces of the backboard. Leave a space between the tables. You must leave a space of several inches between the backboard and the wall. Escalon tables so you never have four corners that are on a single point. You can make straight cuts with a knife for marking and corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw.
- Label the tables and set them aside.
- Vacuuming the floor.
- Mix as directed by the label cola.
- Spread glue on the floor. It covers only enough to place a piece of backboard area. Spread it in one direction using a notched trowel 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Screw the backboard using screws 1 1/4 inch (3.18 cm). These screws must be placed every 6 inches (15.24 cm) around the edges of the backboard and every 8 inches (20.32 cm) along the surface of the table.
- Repeat steps 5 and 6 until you have placed all the reinforcement boards.
- Press the cloth tape over joints and places slight tail mortar coverage on it with the flat side of the trowel.
- Spread glue flush with the tape using the flat side of the trowel.
- Removes roughness scraping with a spatula once the tail is firm but not hard. Also, drag the spatula over the heads of the screws to remove the lumps and screws which have been protruded.
Place your tile
- Make a general test to determine the best arrangement of your tiles. Start at the center and put the tiles out. Your goal should be to have equal spaces on the walls. However, you should use full tiles at entrances, along the tub or shower because no sockets covering the edges if they are not even. Use separators tiles to keep them at the correct distance between them. Also, you do not want the tiles directly touch the tub or other devices. Try not to cut the tiles of a width less than 2 inches (5.08 cm). Sets the tile until it meets most of these instructions
- Cover one side of the two tables of fine guide-tables, rights that are 1 foot (30 cm) shorter than the length and width of the floor-tape (to prevent mortar tail sticking), then screw them to flat. Tables should be close to the wall to allow the whole place all tiles without removing tables guide. Make sure the tables are straight and in the right angle to the other.
- Mix the mortar glue as indicated by the label. Mix only the amount you will use for the next hour.
- Moisten the backboard with a wet sponge to prevent the glue dries.
- With a spatula, spreading mortar few feet tall, this should spread with the flat side of the spatula to distribute it across the floor. Then, comb through the toothed portion of the blade at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Place the tiles against the guides. Use spacers between the tiles to ensure that they are of equal width.
- Repeat steps 3-6 until the tiles are placed whole. Remove the excess glue mortar between the tiles.
- Wait until the glue hardens. The time may vary; review the instructions in the package.
- Remove guide boards.
- Cut the perimeter tiles and other cuts. If you try to cut oddly shaped, begins making a cardboard template. Then, trace the outline and cut tile with a tile cutter or wet tile saw. To make straight cuts, most hardware stores or shops selling tiles will cut you if you need to take (and if you bought there). Otherwise, the tiles can be cut with a tile cutter or wet tile saw. Curved cuts can be made with wire cutters to cut tiles.
- Place and perimeter cut tiles as you did in steps 3 to 6. If there is a very narrow area for your spatula, apply glue mortar on the tile instead of on the floor before placing.
- A ring extension subject on toilet rim by removing the screws, applying a drop of silicone mastic caulking and adjusting on the existing flange with brass or stainless steel screws.
- Tie a strip of transition at the entrance.
- Place a rebar in the spaces between the tiles and the wall, tub, shower and sink. This rod will keep the grout away from these areas so that you can caulk later.
- Wait at least 24 hours for tiles and mortar tail before proceeding to the next step is set.
Grouting on tiles
- Mix the grout as indicated in the instructions so that the consistency is similar to mashed potatoes.
- Talca dipping in water and use it to grouting the floor.
- Use the trowel to press the grout into the joints so that it reaches the floor. Move the trowel diagonally from joints.
- Holding the trowel at an angle of 45 degrees, remove the excess grout.
- Gently remove the grout from the tile surface with a damp sponge; be careful not to remove the seals. If you remove the grout sponge, wait a few minutes and try again. Rinse the sponge often.
- Rinse the floor a second time with a sponge and water. Dry the tiles with a dry tissue curl.
- Remove the rebar and caulk the joints after leaving the grout to cure overnight.
- Replace the toilet, sockets (if necessary), the molding of the socket and anything else you have removed the bathroom.
- After a few days, seal the tile grout sealer.
Tips & Warnings
- No need to cut the tile so that it curves around the rim of the toilet. Instead, cut it into squares so that almost touch it, the corners are covered with the toilet. To ensure that the tile is straight and evenly separated placed a wooden board the same width as the spacers between the tiles as you’re standing.
- Use protective goggles when cutting tiles.